Zinalrothorn

Zinalrothorn — 52 down, 30 to go

Zinalrothorn became our 52nd 4000-meter summit — and our fourth in just nine days, after Punta Giordani, Matterhorn and Dent d’Hérens. By this point in the project, the numbers mattered less than the fatigue building up in our legs and minds.

After descending Dent d’Hérens, we moved fast back to Zermatt. The plan was clear: meet Paolo and Tom at the Zinalrothorn Hut and go straight back up. A short pause at the friendly Hotel Trift gave us just enough time to eat, drink and repack before shouldering our bags once more.

From Zermatt, nearly 1,600 vertical meters awaited us. As so often in the Alps, the hut appeared deceptively close for hours, yet never seemed to get any nearer. After so many big days in a row, every step felt heavier, and we were becoming increasingly aware of how much energy had already been spent in the previous climbs.

Reaching the hut was therefore a relief. Meeting Paolo and Tom gave us new motivation, and despite the fatigue, the atmosphere was relaxed and positive. We had already decided that evening that the Weisshorn would have to wait — pushing further would not be wise given how much had accumulated in such a short time.

From the Rothornhütte to the summit

We left the Rothornhütte (3,180 m) around 4 a.m., descending in the light of our headlamps through moraine and blocks toward the Rothorn Glacier. The first section of glacier was hard-frozen and easy, allowing us to move unroped without crampons.

Soon we reached the Wasserloch, a distinctive couloir with a 20-meter chimney, the first key section of the route. We climbed it freely (UIAA II). The rock was damp in places and required careful footwork. We already knew this would later serve as a perfect rappel point on the descent.

Above, the terrain eased into blocky ground and we climbed toward the “Frühstücksbank” at around 3,600 m, a natural place for a short break before the longer climbing sections begin.

From there we traversed a snowfield, which that day was still firm enough to cross without crampons, and entered a rock corridor leading toward the Gabel, a notch on the ridge. The terrain became more airy and impressive with every step.

Passing through a small rock window, we reached the famous Binerplatte — but first had to wait. With ascent and descent sharing the same line, a 40-minute traffic jam had formed. The Binerplatte is the technical crux of the route: a slabby, exposed section (UIAA II–III), protected with bolts. Careful footwork and solid belays are essential here.

Above it, we climbed up stepped rock toward the Kanzel, an exposed rock bastion with a deep view down the east face. We bypassed it on the right, following the fixed knotted rope, before gaining the final ridge.

Snow and rock alternated along the summit ridge, airy and elegant all the way to the top. Finally, we stepped onto the summit of the Zinalrothorn (4,221 m).

Summit and descent

On the summit we took our time. We ate, rested, and enjoyed the view — and because of continued congestion on the ridge, we waited deliberately while other teams descended. The strategy paid off: when we started down, the route was mostly clear and we could move smoothly.

The descent followed the same line, requiring just as much focus as the ascent. Once back at the hut, there was no lingering — we headed straight down toward Zermatt.

Tim had been very close to a world record — becoming the youngest person ever to climb all Swiss 4000-meter peaks — but something else mattered more to him: spending time with his grandparents in France during the summer holidays. The mountains will still be there in ten years.

The final descent turned into an almost playful race. Without meaning to, we set the third fastest time ever on a Strava segment from Hotel Trift to Zermatt, climbed by thousands of people. Tired, smiling, and slightly amused, we reached the valley.

Days like this remind us that while summits are extraordinary, the simple moments — family, movement, laughter, and being together — are just as valuable.

Route highlights & difficulties

• Wasserloch (≈3,400 m)
  20 m chimney, often damp, UIAA II, ideal rappel point on descent

• Binerplatte (≈3,800 m)
  Crux of the route, slabby UIAA II–III, very exposed, bolted

• Kanzel
  Airy rock bastion before the summit ridge, bypassed on the right

• Traffic
  Common above the Gabel and at the Binerplatte, delays possible

Data & Facts

• Summit: 4,221 m

• Start: Rothornhütte (3,180 m)

• Elevation gain: ~1,040 m

• Time: 4–5 h ascent, 3–4 h descent (plus waiting time)

• Difficulty: AD- (rock up to UIAA II–III, glacier sections)

• Gear: 40–50 m rope, helmet, quickdraws, slings, standard alpine rack; crampons & ice axe depending on conditions

52 down - 30 to go.

Part of Tim & Tobi’s journey to climb all 82 Alpine 4000-meter summits.