Breithorn

Two years ago, we began our project to climb all the 4,000-meter peaks in the Alps — 82 in total according to the UIAA list.

After some training, notably on the Zugspitze, at the Jungfraujoch, and in Mürren, I decided to take Tim to Zermatt to start with one of the most accessible 4,000ers: the Western Breithorn and its 4,160 meters, planned as a four-day outing.

On Day 1, we hike along the Gornergrat to the Gorner Glacier, where we spend 2–3 hours perfecting our ice technique, practicing roped travel, and admiring the incredible beauty of the place.

Day 2: after a rainy morning, we only start the “Schweifinen” via ferrata at 3 p.m., but with a quick pace we make it back to Zermatt with the last rays of sunlight to enjoy a delicious chicken curry soup.

Then comes the big day: starting from the Klein Matterhorn, we are amazed by the solitude of the route. Normally a crowded mountain with a track as wide as a highway, today we are the first to make the trail — and we remain almost alone the whole way. Only one other rope team on foot and a couple of skiers cross our path on the way back. A brief stop at the windy summit, and then back home.

The fourth day greets us with a light snowstorm, but we decide to do the “Matterhorn Glacier Trail” anyway to catch a glimpse of the Cervin (Matterhorn). That turned out to be a great decision: even though we gave up the idea of reaching the Hörnli Hut via the Hörnligrat because of the snow, it allowed us to discover an astonishing set of ice caves! We went back six months later, and sadly nothing remained… a reminder that you need to seize the moment when it comes! What’s left is an ineffable memory of blue ice sculpted by water and wind, and Tim’s laughter as he slid across the frozen lakes!